It’s likely that you are unfamiliar with the work of Marilyn Hagerty, who passed away this week at the age of 99, after a 70-year career as a writer and food critic for The Grand Forks Herald. Her column, The Eatbeat, had been running for 26 years in 2012 when she unwittingly stepped into the limelight with a review of the newly-arrived Olive Garden to the small North Dakota college town.
“The chicken Alfredo ($10.95) was warm and comforting on a cold day. The portion was generous. My server was ready with Parmesan cheese.”
More Guy Fieri than M.F.K. Fisher, her simple appraisal of the Italian chain restaurant caught the attention, first of the Internet, where it garnered over a million views, and then Anthony Bourdain, who flew her to New York, dined her at Le Bernardin, and ultimately published her book, “Grand Forks: A History of American Dining in 128 Reviews.”
Why this final murmur of attention for a small-town writer when the nation is collectively crying out about freedom of speech? I suspect it is a clarion call to simpler times, when a grandmother’s few words about a pedestrian chicken dish could evoke such glee.
We strive for that simplicity in our mission at Beyondish. We review in small towns and mid-sized cities, where the Reichls and the Wells usually don’t venture and the James Beard Awards only offer a passing glance. Our reviewers aren’t famous and in fact, rarely lay claim to any pedigreed writer chops. They’re just folks like you and me who happen upon a beloved dish and have the passion and 150 words (or less) to share their thoughts. Always positive (we leave the snark to others). Always vetted by a human. It’s the real deal from real people in real places.
“Warm and comforting on a cold day." That’ll pass muster with this editor any day of the week. So many dishes, so little time. Wherever your food journey takes you this weekend, please think of us. We’ll save a seat at the table for you.
Always hungry,
Ken Carlton, Editor-in-Chief, Beyondish
[Editor’s Note: Please consider supporting us by upgrading your subscription to $6 per month or $50 for the year. We’ll cover this country from BBQ to crab boil, and everything in between, but we need your help to keep it going. Thanks so much and have a great weekend!]
She sounds like someone that would have been fun to know and eat with!!!